One of the things I wondered about, when Lisa and I decided to go to three Andalucian cities (Sevilla, Granada, and Cordoba), was whether they would all look and feel the same, so similar that they would later merge into one indistinguishable memory. That concern couldn't have been more unfounded. Sevilla felt like a city of memory, a place where time stood still, and Cordoba felt charming but claustrophobic, all tall walls and whitewash, but Granada, though smaller, was lively and modern and thoroughly enjoyable. Paradoxically, it doesn't offer much more than two or three days' worth of tourist entertainment, but I think I could happily live there for quite a while without getting bored. It is a tourist haven largely because of the Alhambra, an impressive site that receives some 7000 visitors a day, seven days a week, but it also has cramped old neighborhoods, moden shopping, and offices, all of which somehow blend together seamlessly, one ancient block running into a recent one without a jarring change in architecture. By contrast, Sevilla bothered me because it felt like two cities - medieval Sevilla on one side of the river, more modern-looking Triana and other neighborhoods, which we didn't explore, on the other.